Things to do in Edinburgh in winter

Winter is my favourite time of year in Edinburgh, and I’m not alone among locals in saying so. Outside the Christmas rush the crowds disappear, the low sun turns the sandstone gold for most of the day, and the pubs feel twice as cosy. Yes, the days are short and it can be bitterly windy. But if you dress for it, Edinburgh in winter is the city at its most atmospheric.

Here’s how to make the most of it, from November to February.

What’s Edinburgh like in winter?

Expect cold, often windy and changeable weather rather than deep freezes. Snow in the city centre is unusual and rarely lasts long, although the Pentland Hills to the south often turn white. Rain and drizzle are common, but so are crisp, clear days with incredible light.

The big difference is daylight. Around the winter solstice you get roughly seven hours of daylight: the sun rises after 8.30am and sets mid-afternoon. Plan your outdoor sightseeing for the middle of the day, and save museums, galleries and pubs for the dark hours. You can check today’s sunset time on the “Edinburgh today” card on our homepage.

Why visit in winter?

• Fewer crowds. Outside the Christmas and Hogmanay peak, the Castle, the Royal Mile and the viewpoints are far quieter than in summer.
• The light. Because the sun stays low, you get golden-hour light for much of the day. Photographers love it.
• Sociable sunrises. You can watch the sun come up over the city without a 4am alarm.
• Better prices. January and February are usually the cheapest months for hotels.
• Cosiness. Edinburgh does open fires, whisky and long, warming lunches very well.

The best things to do outdoors

Sunrise on Calton Hill

In midsummer you’d need to be up before 5am. In December, sunrise is a civilised 8.40am or so. Climb Calton Hill as the sky lightens behind Arthur’s Seat and watch the first sun hit the Castle.

Climb Arthur’s Seat in the low sun

Arthur’s Seat is magical on a clear winter day, with views to the snowy hills of Fife. But leave plenty of daylight to get back down, and skip it in high wind or ice: the rocks near the summit are slippery.

Walk the Water of Leith

The riverside path from Dean Village to Stockbridge is sheltered, flat and lovely with frost on the trees. Finish with a long lunch in Stockbridge.

Sunrise over the sea at Portobello

Portobello Beach faces north-east, so in winter the sun rises over the Firth of Forth. You’ll share the beach with dog walkers and a surprising number of year-round sea swimmers.

Blue hour at the Shore

Head to the Shore in Leith for sunset and blue hour, when the restaurant lights reflect in the water. Then you’re already in the right place for dinner.

The best things to do when it’s dark or wet

• The National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street is free, enormous and has a roof terrace with views of the Castle.
• The Scottish National Gallery on the Mound is free and perfect for an hour on a grey afternoon.
• The Real Mary King’s Close takes you underground into the hidden streets below the Royal Mile.
• Afternoon tea, a long lunch or a whisky tasting fills a dark afternoon very nicely.

See my full guide to what to do in Edinburgh when it rains.

What’s on in winter

• Edinburgh’s Christmas runs from mid-November to early January, with the market, the big wheel and the funfair in Princes Street Gardens. See my Edinburgh at Christmas guide.
• Hogmanay, Edinburgh’s New Year, includes the Torchlight Procession and the Street Party.
• Burns Night on 25 January celebrates Robert Burns, with haggis, whisky and poetry suppers across the city.

What to pack

• A waterproof, windproof coat. Wind is the real enemy here, not the cold.
• Warm layers, a hat and gloves.
• Shoes with good grip. Wet cobbles and steep closes are treacherous in winter.
• A small umbrella is fine in the streets, but useless on the hills.

A winter day, the local way

1. Morning: Sunrise on Calton Hill, then breakfast in the New Town.
2. Late morning: The Castle, while the light is good.
3. Lunch: A long, warm lunch somewhere in the Old Town.
4. Afternoon: The National Museum of Scotland as the light fades.
5. Sunset: Blue hour on Victoria Street or at the Shore in Leith.
6. Evening: Dinner, then a pub with a fire.