The Shore, Leith

The Shore is the heart of old Leith, where the Water of Leith flows into the docks. Old stone warehouses line the quayside, boats are moored along the river, and the ground floors are full of restaurants and pubs. On a still evening, with the lights reflected in the water, it’s one of the loveliest places in Edinburgh.

What is the Shore?

For centuries Leith was Edinburgh’s port, and the Shore was its busiest street, where ships unloaded wine, timber and goods from across Europe. Leith was a separate town until it merged with Edinburgh in 1920, and the Shore still feels like its own place.

The warehouses and merchants’ buildings have been converted into flats, restaurants and bars, and the area has become one of the best places to eat in Scotland. Restaurant Martin Wishart, which has held a Michelin star for 25 years, is right on the Shore.

How to get there

• By tram: take the tram from the city centre towards Newhaven and get off in Leith. The Shore is a short walk from the Leith tram stops.
• On foot: walk the length of Leith Walk from the east end of Princes Street. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes.
• Along the river: the Water of Leith Walkway follows the river all the way to the Shore.

When to go

Blue hour, just after sunset, is the time: the restaurant and street lights come on, but there’s still colour in the sky, and on a calm evening everything is mirrored in the water. Then stay for dinner.

Local tip

Arrive just before sunset and stay for blue hour. Rest your phone or camera on a wall to keep it steady as the restaurant lights reflect in the water.

Nearby

• The Royal Yacht Britannia, the Queen’s former royal yacht, moored at Ocean Terminal.
• Leith Walk, the city’s most diverse food street.
• Leith Links, a park where some of the earliest recorded rules of golf were written in the 18th century.
• Read my full Leith neighbourhood guide.