What to do in Edinburgh when it rains

It’s going to rain at some point. That’s not pessimism, it’s Edinburgh. The good news is that the city is brilliant on a wet day: some of the best museums in Britain are free, the underground streets of the Old Town are dry by definition, and there are few things better than watching a downpour from the window of an old pub.

Here’s how locals spend a rainy day, from free museums to the cosiest places to wait it out.

Free museums and galleries

Edinburgh’s national museums and galleries are free to enter, which makes them the obvious first stop.

National Museum of Scotland

On Chambers Street in the Old Town, this is the one to head for. Under one roof you’ll find Dolly the sheep, the Lewis Chessmen, Scottish history from prehistoric times to the present, and a natural history collection that keeps children busy for hours. The Grand Gallery, a soaring Victorian hall of glass and iron, is worth seeing on its own. If the rain stops, take the lift to the roof terrace for a view of the Castle. Some special exhibitions charge.

Scottish National Gallery

On the Mound, between the Old and New Towns, this is a compact gallery of European and Scottish art. You can see the highlights in an hour, which makes it a good fit for a sudden shower.

Scottish National Portrait Gallery

On Queen Street in the New Town, this red sandstone building has one of the most beautiful interiors in the city: look up in the Great Hall at the painted frieze of figures from Scottish history.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Two galleries, known as Modern One and Modern Two, face each other across Belford Road, a short walk uphill from Dean Village. Combine them with the riverside walk if the weather clears.

The smaller city museums

The Museum of Edinburgh and The People’s Story on the Canongate, at the bottom of the Royal Mile, are small, free and much quieter than the big hitters. They’re a good way to learn the city’s own history.

Paid attractions worth the money on a wet day

• The Real Mary King’s Close, off the Royal Mile, takes you on a guided tour of the streets and houses buried under the City Chambers. It’s genuinely fascinating, and a little spooky. Book ahead.
• Camera Obscura & World of Illusions, near the Castle, is a hit with children: five floors of optical illusions and a Victorian camera obscura at the top.
• Surgeons’ Hall Museums, on Nicolson Street, tell the story of Edinburgh’s medical history. Not for the squeamish, but brilliant.
• Dynamic Earth, by the Scottish Parliament, is an interactive science centre about the planet. Good for families.
• The Scotch Whisky Experience, by the Castle, is a beginner’s introduction to whisky with a tasting at the end.

Prices and opening times change, so check before you go and book popular tours in advance.

For families

The National Museum of Scotland is the best wet-weather option for children, followed by Camera Obscura and Dynamic Earth. All three can easily fill a morning.

Cosy places to wait it out

Sometimes the best plan is to give in. Find a pub with a fire, order something warming and watch the weather roll past. The Old Town has plenty of old pubs tucked into the closes, and the Grassmarket’s pubs are close together, so you’re never far from shelter. A long lunch in Stockbridge or Bruntsfield is another local favourite.

Make the most of the rain

Edinburgh’s weather changes fast. Rain often clears into the best light of the day, so keep an eye on the sky.

Local tip

Wet cobbles reflect light beautifully. Victoria Street just after a shower, with the shopfront colours reflected in the street, is one of the best photos in the city.

A rainy day plan

1. Morning: The National Museum of Scotland. Arrive at opening and work your way up to the roof terrace.
2. Lunch: Somewhere warm in the Old Town.
3. Afternoon: The Real Mary King’s Close, then the Scottish National Gallery on the Mound.
4. Evening: A pub with a fire, and dinner nearby.

If the rain lasts all week, read my guide to Edinburgh in winter: most of it works just as well in a wet summer.