Old Town

The Old Town is where Edinburgh began. A long ridge of volcanic rock runs downhill from the Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse, and the medieval city grew along it, packed so tightly that its tenements rose ten storeys or more. It’s the busiest part of Edinburgh and the most touristy, but get off the main street and it’s still one of the most extraordinary places in Europe.

What’s the Old Town like?

The Royal Mile is the spine, running about a mile from the Castle at the top to Holyrood at the bottom. It changes its name as it goes: Castlehill, the Lawnmarket, the High Street and the Canongate. Dozens of narrow closes and wynds drop steeply off either side, many of them public rights of way, with courtyards, gardens and views hidden at the end.

Together with the New Town, the Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

How to do the Old Town well

• Go early. Before 9am the Royal Mile is almost empty, and the low light down the closes is beautiful.
• Duck into the closes. Look for the street signs at the entrances. Advocate’s Close has a famous framed view of the Scott Monument, and Dunbar’s Close Garden on the Canongate is a hidden 17th-century-style garden.
• Head downhill. The lower half of the Mile, the Canongate, is far quieter than the stretch near the Castle.
• Look up. The tenement gables, carved lintels and old shop signs are half the pleasure.

What to see

• Edinburgh Castle, at the top of the Mile. Book online and go first thing.
• St Giles’ Cathedral, halfway down, with its crown spire and the Thistle Chapel.
• The Real Mary King’s Close, a guided tour of the buried streets under the City Chambers.
• Victoria Street and the Grassmarket, just south of the Mile.
• Greyfriars Kirkyard, one of the most atmospheric graveyards in Britain.
• The National Museum of Scotland, on Chambers Street, free to enter.
• The Palace of Holyroodhouse and the Scottish Parliament, at the foot of the Mile.
• The Museum of Edinburgh and The People’s Story, two small, free museums on the Canongate.

Where to eat and drink

Step one street away from the Mile. The Grassmarket and Victoria Street have pubs and restaurants with real character, and the Southside, around Nicolson Street, is full of cheaper places. For a classic pub, try the Bow Bar on Victoria Street for whisky or Sandy Bell’s on Forrest Road for folk music. See my guide to eating in Edinburgh.

A perfect day in the Old Town

1. 9.30am: Edinburgh Castle at opening time, booked in advance.
2. 12pm: Walk down the Royal Mile, ducking into Advocate’s Close and the other closes.
3. 1pm: Lunch a street or two off the Mile, then the National Museum of Scotland.
4. 4pm: Victoria Street, the Grassmarket and Greyfriars Kirkyard as the light softens.
5. Evening: Dinner nearby, then folk music at Sandy Bell’s.

Getting there

The Old Town is a few minutes’ walk uphill from Waverley station, via the Waverley Steps, Cockburn Street or the Mound. It’s steep in places, so wear good shoes.

Good for

First-time visitors, history lovers and anyone who wants to see the Edinburgh of the postcards. If you’re staying a few days, make sure you also get out to Stockbridge or Leith.