In short
Portobello is Edinburgh's seaside suburb, about three miles east of the centre, with a long sandy beach and a Victorian promenade. It's reachable by regular Lothian buses and is popular for walks, sea swimming and sunrise over the Firth of Forth.
Portobello is Edinburgh’s seaside, about three miles east of the city centre. It has a long sandy beach, a Victorian promenade and a high street full of independent shops, and on a sunny weekend it feels like the whole city has come to the coast. Locals call it “Porty”.
What’s Portobello like?
Portobello grew up in the 19th century as a seaside resort for Edinburgh, with bathing machines on the beach and a pier. The pier is long gone, but the Victorian feel remains, with handsome villas, a long promenade and old-fashioned seaside pleasures like fish and chips and ice cream.
Today it’s a lively, friendly community, with a strong local identity, lots of families and a famous group of year-round sea swimmers.
What to do
- Walk the promenade. It runs for about two miles along the beach, from Portobello to Joppa. Perfect for a walk, run or cycle.
- Watch the sunrise. Portobello Beach faces north-east, so you can watch the sun come up over the Firth of Forth.
- Try the Turkish baths. Portobello Swim Centre is home to one of the few remaining Victorian Turkish baths in Scotland.
- Join the sea swimmers, if you’re brave. Check the water quality information and conditions first, and never swim alone.
- Explore Portobello High Street, with its independent shops, cafés and pubs.
- Look for rock pools at Joppa, at the quieter eastern end of the promenade, at low tide.
Where to eat and drink
Fish and chips on the promenade, ice cream on a summer’s day, or a pint looking out over the sea. The promenade and the high street both have cafés, bakeries and pubs. See my guide to eating in Edinburgh.
A perfect day in Portobello
- Sunrise: Watch the sun come up over the Firth of Forth from the beach.
- Morning: Breakfast on the promenade, then walk east to the rock pools at Joppa.
- Midday: The Victorian Turkish baths at Portobello Swim Centre, or a dip in the sea if you’re brave.
- Afternoon: Browse Portobello High Street.
- Evening: Fish and chips on the prom as the light fades.
Getting there
Lothian buses run from the city centre to Portobello, including the 26, 44 and 124. The journey takes around 20 to 30 minutes, depending on traffic. Get off on Portobello High Street and walk a couple of minutes down to the beach.
Good for
A day by the sea, families, sunrise walks, sea swimming and a break from the city centre.
Good to know
Questions people ask
Does Edinburgh have a beach?
Yes, Portobello Beach, about three miles east of the centre, with a long promenade.
How long does it take to get to Portobello?
About 20 to 30 minutes by bus from the city centre.